Sitting on the west side of Maputo Bay overlooking the Indian Ocean, Maputo is divided into two distinct parts: the colonial Cidade cimento, occupying the areas closest to the sea, and the indigenous Canio, stretching further inland. The former is inhabited by middle- and high-income Mozambicans and the large expatriate community, while the latter is home to the local population. Since the end of the post-independence conflict (1975-1992, although peace was only properly established in 1994) there has been an increase in both reasonably priced and exclusive accommodation consisting of both apartments and detached houses, usually on two floors which is spacious by European standards. Traffic in the city is heavy and the roads are generally poor. Buses are in short supply and the local population gets around on foot or by the semi-official chapas (white minibuses displaying the number and destination on the front), which are very cheap but not always safe. Expats travel mostly by taxi or buy their own car. Maputo is relatively safe and offers a good range of leisure and sports activities, beautiful beaches and a pleasant climate. It also has an interesting cultural life, with film, music, drama, dance, exhibitions and events organised by the numerous humanitarian agencies or by the university. There are several international schools and private clinics, although rich Mozambicans and most expats prefer to go to Nelspruit in neighbouring South Africa for treatment if they are seriously ill. Portuguese and some English are spoken in the Cidade cimento, while one is more likely to hear MaXangana or MaRonga, two of the many local tongues, in the Canio. Text and photos: Rafaella Greco Tonegutti, toneguttir@yahoo.it
Alto Ma Alto Ma stretches along the end of Avenida 24 de Julho and Avenida Eduardo Mondlane between the Cidade cimento and the Canio. It hosts the parliament building (Assembleia da Republica), constructed by the Chinese in 1997...
Baixa Daily life in this busy commercial area revolves around the harbour and the central fruit and vegetable market, which has just been rebuilt following a fire in July 2005. At night there is a faint echo of what was known ...
Catembe Catembe is a small settlement on the far side of Maputo Bay, 15 minutes by ferry from the Baixa. Passenger boats leave every 10 minutes and the return ticket costs 10,000 meticais; car ferries depart every half hour. Oth...
Central/Malhangalene Located northwest of Polana and Sommerschield in the direction of the commercial Baixa area, Central and Malhangalene have fewer trees and poorer roads than their more upmarket neighbours but they are still popular among...
Coop Coop, east of Malhangalene, is the old Bairro Militar, or colonial military quarter, built to include barracks, shooting ranges, night and sports clubs for the officers and soldiers. Today it is a middle-class residentia...
Inhaca Island Inhaca is the largest island in Maputo Bay about 37 km off the coast with a nature reserve, the small village of Vila de Inhaca and beautiful beaches. It takes 15 minutes to get there by plane or an hour and a half by fe...
Maxaquene Originally referring to the area around the Ponta Vermelha promontory, after independence Maxaquene came to denote the area at the end of Avenida Kenneth Kaunda in the northern part of the city towards the airport. It is...
Nova Sommerschield/Triunfo In the last five years a number of new villas and compounds have been built from Sommerschield down to the Costa do Sol beach, creating the new luxury areas of Nova Sommerschield and Triunfo for expats and high-income Mo...
Polana/Sommerschield Following independence from Portugal in 1975 and the subsequent reorganisation of urban areas, Polana, due north of the Ponta Vermelha promontory, together with Sommerschield to the northeast, became the de facto city ce...